One of my guilty home fantasies is to have a fireplace. A big, warm hearth to gather around when the San Francisco fog rolls in—and also so I can burn that perennial almond wood from Whole Foods that always looks so good. But as a city dweller, this is far fetched. Luckily, with the opening of TBD in SOMA, I think I might have found a dream come true.
TBD is the second restaurant project by the young, energetic, and enterprising team that opened the seasonally focused AQ restaurant—which incidentally is right next door to TBD in SOMA.
And if AQ is affordable fine dining, owner Matt Semmelhack and chef Mark Liberman have now opened an even more casual environment in TBD, a place where guests can find hearty seasonal meats and other grilled delicacies, a communal place to gather around an urban hearth, and easy, culinary-style cocktails. Yes, this is where I’m going to get my fireplace fix.
It’s the perfect place for when you want to get a bit, well, lodge-y. The dominant feature in the narrow space is a dramatic open grill, where on open flames cooks grill nice slices of locally source filets and farmers-market-fresh vegetables.
Patrons have a choice of sitting at the bar in front of the open oven or at dining tables either on the ground floor on a loft level looking down into the open kitchen.
Tim Zohn, acclaimed bar director from sister restaurant AQ, takes up the cocktails at TBD. “The cocktails here shouldn’t compete with next door’s program,” he said. “I wanted to do something totally different.”
And to Tim, that meant putting a fresh spotlight on the ever more popular low-ABV cocktails, drinks that rely on wines, beers, and bitters instead of more traditional hard liquors.
Tim calls these drinks "Loopholes." Isn't that cute?
Tim first became interested in low-ABV cocktails when he was designing the bar menu at AQ, before it got its liquor license.
But, at TBD, the reason for Loopholes is not that the spot had trouble getting the highly coveted liquor license, says Zohn. Rather, TBD is the place to find a fresh look at how great tasting drinks can be made with these sometimes denigrated ingredients. Plus, they go pretty great with food.
Of note, this cocktail program is paired with a robust sherry selection, handpicked by AQ sommelier Kristen Capella—something Josh and I are particularly excited about. (Sherry’s time in the sun has been long overdue!)
I tried of few of these cocktails.
First, the Porter Old Fashioned
The cleverly named Nogroni (opposed to the Negroni because this one has no gin, swapping out the spirit for bitters). Like a Negroni, it's bright and rich, but a little more spicy.
Something not on the menu, but a drink I highly recommend if you catch Tim: a Beergarita! It's sparkling, bright, dry, a little savory (from the wheat), and refreshing!
In addition to the drinks, TBD boasts a delightful menu with small, medium, and large share plates focusing on grilled items. The menu is divided into several categories: raw, smoked, hearth and embers, grill, plancha, and sweet.
This dish of cured wild salmon, rye waffle, and dill was particularly delicious. The waffle was satisfyingly crunchy and a little chewy, perfectly sweet with the rich flakes of fish.
The bread, butter, and seaweed offers a really nice vegetarian small plate. The butter is bright and fresh and the seaweed is crunchy and briny.
I also ordered the aged beef sirloin, which was a dense, rich cut cooked perfectly pink.
Cooked on this beautiful grill, no doubt!
And finished with "smores"—satisfyingly smokey and with crunchy chicory!
And super moist dutch oven cake!
TBD in action:
See more pictures in our gallery here:
TBD
1077 Mission St.
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 431-1826
Bernal Height's newest (only?) cocktail bar, Holy Water is meant to be a neighborhood bar, but after our visit last week, I think it's well worth a trip from across town. Here, we found some refreshingly simple, classic cocktails beautifully made, some serious tiki favorites, and carefully curated California beers in an enjoyable, casual atmosphere.
John Ottoman, below, owns Holy Water, along with a team that was is also involved with Bloodhound, Prize Fighter, and Brass Tacks.
John specifically designed this bar to fit into the neighborhood, Bernal Heights, which is known as a cozy community within San Francisco. As a result, the cocktails on the menu are all $9 classics, perfectly executed (no exaggeration––they're flawless). The beer selection is on par with Monk's Kettle in terms of quality. He tries to keep all of his beers local, and they rotate semi-regularly. If you're looking for rare or unusual beers, you'll find them here. (I had a great sour ale, for instance.) The specials also make Holy Water a great local spot or destination. If you can't read it, that sign says "Shot + Beer $7."
It's the perfect place for a chill night with tasty drinks! (Or maybe before or after one of our favorite restaurants ever, Ichi Sushi, which just opened a bigger space!)
Now meet some of the cocktails!
Turf Club: gin, french vermouth, maraschino, orange bitters. If I had to choose one drink to prove that John Ottoman is a master of his craft, I'd pick the Turf Club. A bit of a riff on the martini, it has that same clean, crisp character—with a bit more sweet flair from the maraschino.
Jungle Bird: black rum, pineapple, Campari, lime. I've always loved the Jungle Bird, but I've never had one quite like this. They use a brighter pineapple at Holy Water, which makes the drink taste brighter than usual. The brightness of the pineapple complements the Campari perfectly, leaving you with a semi-dry, pineappley finish. It's fantastic.
Mexican Firing Squad: tequila, grenadine, lime. This is another drink that left me floored. The three ingredients were so expertly mixed that the drink tasted better than the sum of its parts. The Mexican Firing Squad, like the other drinks, is bright and crisp. The tart grenadine and smoky mezcal leaves you smacking your lips and going back for more.
After the Gold Rush: bourbon, pineapple, apricot, lime. Following the flavor profile of the other drinks, the After the Gold Rush cocktail is bright and clean. The bourbon complicates it, though, adding a more richness to the cocktail. Absolutely delicious.
All in all, Holy Water is either the perfect neighborhood spot or a destination well worth the trip. It's vibe is casual, beer selection epic, and cocktails endlessly pleasing. Go to there as soon as you can.
Holy Water
309 Cortland Ave
San Francisco, CA 94110
Open Mon - Fri, 4 p.m. - 2 a.m.; Sat & Sun, 2 p.m. - 2 a.m.
Anyone who has ever seen the TV show Cheers knows what it’s like to have A Place.
It doesn’t have to be a bar. It could be a coffee shop or a lunch place, a tea shop or maybe even a favorite stretch of beach. It’s a place where, well, yeah—everybody knows your name. You know the people there; they know you. You feel so comfortable there you could find the bathroom blind. And you already know what comes next in the Spotify/Pandora list.
Have you ever had a place like that? Well, for us, that was Heaven’s Dog.
Josh and I have shared countless memories at Heaven’s Dog. We first started going there in 2009—that first time we met Erik Adkins thinking he was a bouncer (and were stunned out of our minds when he ran behind the bar and made a Remember the Maine for me and a Bittered Sling for Josh; funnily, we switched cocktails. The Bittered Sling would instantly become one of my favorite cocktails).
And we’ve gone ever since. Since opening, the staff was stacked with an all-star team. And it soon became storied and cherished place among industry professionals, who would head down to the SOMA “hole in the wall” if they got cut early.
Then one cold day in November, we pulled up for a quick mid-week night cap, and the place was dark. There was a handwritten note on the door: “Closed tonight.” We would later find out that there was a flood in the building forcing the restaurant to temporarily close.
Days passed. Weeks passed. Months passed. A year passed.
And we soon learned that Charles Phan—owner of Heaven’s Dog and of the famous Slanted Door Group in San Francisco—had greater plans for the restaurant, renovating the whole space for a new concept: British pub.
This week Heaven’s Dog finally reopened as The Coachman.
As beverage director of the Slanted Door Group, Erik Adkins is steering the bar program with John Codd in the esteemed position of bar manager (formerly of 15 Romolo and former bar manager of now-closed Slanted Door sister restaurant Wo Hing). The food is expected to be English steakhouse style—with prime rib, pies, Yorkshire pudding, and modern twists on bangers and mash.
We haven’t seen the space fully operating yet, but here we offer a little sneak peek from the opening event.
There are some notable changes to the space.
The private glass dining room has been knocked down, as well as the office space behind it, creating a much longer and open dining room.
Mall-goers might recognize this handsome back wall, which used to be at the Out the Door restaurant in the Westfield.
The back bar has been changed up a bit, too. The long glass shelves have been replaced by modern looking boxes—either a similar design to the now-closed Wo Hing or maybe even taken from it.
The long, gorgeous bar—all one piece of wood—remains intact, looking good as ever.
Hand pumps have been installed for the cask ale program. This warmer style of beer service was something I grew fond of in London, and I’m excited to see it brought to The Coachman.
Three cocktails at the event were offered up as a hint of what’s to come (please note, different glassware and garnishes will be used during full service).
The Pineapple Julep, a bright, tasty and refreshing drink of Bols genever, spiced and roasted pineapple, maraschino liqueur, and crushed ice —a Jerry Thomas classic that tastes of tiki meets American old school.
Wall-E-Bear, a smooth rum drink with a little bit of funk. Made from Aniversario pampero rum, fino sherry, negroni reduction, and yellow chartreuse.
And Knickerbocker, another bright cocktail of Appleton A/X Jamaican Rum, Strawberry, Kina, lemon, and sparkling wine, easy to drink, especially with food.
We’ll tell you more as we get to know The Coachman better. But for now: Welcome to the world, The Coachman!
The Coachman
1148 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 831-1701
Austin's newest cocktail bar, Half Step, is now open on Rainey Street. And it's awesome. Chris Bostick, native-Texan and the guy who used to manage the Varnish in LA, brings you this new bar, along with some help from his infamous friend Sasha Petraske, the Milk & Honey dude. Every aspect of this bar was meticulously planned––from the intensive bartender training regiment to the elaborate ice program to the chill interior and lively exterior. Take a look at how beautiful this interior is:
If you choose to sit inside, you'll be treated to table service and, if you're lucky, some music:
If you prefer the freedom to roam, or just want to enjoy the weather, there's an outside bar, which, unlike the inside, will never get too full:
Ok, now on to the good stuff. The cocktails are spot-freakin'-on. Take a look at the menu:
It's nothing but classics, and all of them are made to perfection. Much of that is thanks to a group of bartenders who care a lot about what they're doing, Christ Bostick and Sasha Petraske's meticulous oversight, and an overall ridiculous attention to detail. Take a look at this Negroni:
I brought it back to my table, had a few drinks, and then took this picture––and the glass is still frosty! Half Step takes their mixing seriously. First, every piece of mixing equipment is chilled, all the serving glasses are chilled and their clinebell ice machine spits out perfectly (and I mean perfectly) clear blocks of ice. I cannot stress how clear and cold this ice is. It's beautiful.. Here's Justin prepping a Remember the Maine, note the mixing glass:
The Remember the Maine itself was perhaps one of the best I've ever had. The cherry heering was noticeable but not too strong, the sweet vermouth adds depth without too much sweetness, and the absinthe adds a nice spice to the finish. I think I liked it because it was a little drier than the usual:
The Prescription Julep is a mixture of cognac and rye. It's more refreshing than your average julep, thanks to the cognac. It's almost peachy:
If I haven't made it clear, Half Step is a gem. It's definitely worth a trip to Rainey if you're a habitual avoider. If you often find yourself there, you just met your new favorite bar.
Half Step
75 1/2 Rainey Street
512.391.1877
Tuesday-Sunday, 7pm-2am.
Outdoor bar open weather permitting.
I've been using a crummy, cheap wooden muddler for awhile. The bottom is cracked, the paint is peeling, and to be honest, it's got kind of an odor:
So I tried out a different type of muddler for a change of pace. A stainless steel one with nice little bruisers on the bottom:
I took it for a test drive first on an old fashioned Instead of using simple, I decided to grind the sugar into the bitters. The little teeth worked nicely. They also work beautifully to gently bruise mint for juleps.
At 14 bucks, it's a good investment if you want to go the stainless steel route instead of wood. You can get the here
Thieves Tavern is one of the reasons I love San Francisco. When you first walk in, you think you're in a neighborhood dive bar, nothing more. There are some pool tables, a good jukebox, a photo booth, and a bunch of PBR. The crowd, even on a Saturday night, is lively but not overwhelming. As far as dives go, Thieves Tavern is perfect. But there's more to this place than meets the eye. Besides the divey goodness, Thieves Tavern also has an enormous, eclectic selection of whiskeys from around the world.
When I asked our bartender––an impossibly nice guy named Brendan––for a menu, he said, "No can do, no menus. We've got a wide selection of whiskey. Tell me what tastes you like and a price range, and I'll make some suggestions." I opted for sub-$12, peaty scotch. He brought down these guys:
Even though it was moderately busy, Brendan patiently and knowledgeably indulged my annoying questions (without being condescending) and kindly offered to let me taste a few before I committed. 10/10!
Thieves Tavern
496 14th St
San Francisco
(415) 252-9082
Mon-Sat 12pm-2am.
Sun: 10am-2am Cash Only
If you want to find iconic San Francisco, you only have to look at Tosca Cafe—a famous spot known for a comfortable seat at the bar, a bright and welcoming sign, and a hot spiked drink. For years, the North Beach haunt has been the place for locals and visitors alike, drawing high profile bar flies, like Sean Penn and Bono who would hang out in the dark, seedy back area. Unfazed, locals would while away the day sipping beer next to the towering cappuccino machine. A few months ago, the Spotted Pig Team, April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman, brought a new, updated finish to the mainstay—opening up a robust kitchen and bringing in local rising star talent Isaac Shumway (formerly of Heaven's Dog, Bourbon and Branch, and Alembic) to direct the bar program.
Luckily, the space maintained all the best parts of a true bar—a majestic back bar, the handsome, original cappuccino machine, and comfortable booths—with some updated elements (new upholstery for the seats, gorgeous glassware, and some added mood lighting that highlights the original paintings on the wall). It makes for a beautiful interior. It's one of those bars that transports you to a kind of San Francisco twilight zone where you can't tell if it's 1920 or 1990 or what.
The revamp has led to one of the most robust cocktail programs of the year. Led by bar director Isaac Shumway, the menu showcases the best of what we hope for in a cocktail lineup—delightful sippers bolstered by rich, strong, complex drinks. In particular, the menu not only draws on the original house cappuccino. The heart of the menu lies in strong classics and twists on classics, including a whole bedrock of classic drinks not listed on the menu. That is to say, if you come in and order a classic drink not listed, you can expect a damn good cocktail, no foibles.
^Bar Director Isaac Shumway
Isaac has brought a venerable ice program to Tosca, freezing and cutting crystal-clear ice cubes. They are beautiful and slow melting, creating a pristine experience for straight spirits on the rocks or strong stirred drinks.
What's more, if you're looking for the best whiskey in the city, Tosca is a must. It may not be the widest selection of brown spirits (please see: Hard Water), but it is some of the most carefully and excellently curated. Hardcore fans will notice the Old Forester Birthday Bourbon, the Pappy Van Winkle, the Elijah Craig 21, the Michter's 20, and the Four Roses Special Reserve just hanging out on the shelf like it's nothin'. If you don't know what those things are, then now's the time to learn.
Now meet the cocktails!
The Polo Cup: Gin or Vodka, cucumber, mint, basil, elderflower, lemon, soda. This is a drink you can order for your cocktail-phobic friends. It's light, easy drinking, but still packs some serious flavor. It's just sweet enough to please the club crowd, but it won't leave you with a sugar headache.
Suffering Bastard: Armagnac, St. George Terroir Gin, fresh pressed ginger, lime, bitters, soda. A variation on Trader Vic's classic cocktail, the Suffering Bastard is everything I love in a tiki drink. It's just sweet enough to hold the spiciness of the ginger, which matches the terroir gin perfectly. The lemon and soda add a nice, dry finish that keeps you coming back for more.
Bennet: three ingredient drinks are often the best, but it's hard to find a place that does them justice. Tosca has the ratios perfect. No matter who you order a Bennet from, you'll enjoy three perfectly matched ingredients: Miller's Gin, lime, aromatic bitters (house made).
Trouble in Paradise: Bourbon, Campari, lemon, basil, grapefruit, black pepper tincture. Perhaps my favorite on the menu because it hits all my favorite notes. It's bitter, spicy, tart, and herbaceous. This drink is also the most culinary on the menu, insofar as its got layers of complex flavors. Don't be put off by the basil and black pepper, they blend with the other ingredients perfectly. Though it's a rich cocktail for sure, it doesn't taste like you're drinking a soup or anything.
The Zamboanga Cocktail: Marie Duffau Bas Armagnac, pineapple gum, maraschino, lime, aromatic bitters. For whatever reason, this drink is a rare sighting on a classic cocktail on their menus. It's a shame, though, because it's one of the most interesting. The pineapple gum pulls together the other ingredients perfectly. The olive and lime garnish provide that extra bit of salt and acid to round out the flavors in this one. So good.
Rosita: Gin, calvados, Dolin Blanc, grenadine, lemon peel. The Rosita is a delicate drink, perfect when you want something a little slower and lighter without sacrificing flavor.
House Cappuccino: Marie Duffau Bas Armagnac, bourbon, Dandelion chocolate ganache, organic milk. This is Tosca's most famous drink right now. It's a delicious drink on a cold afternoon when you want a happy hour warmup. The chocolate ganache (locally sourced!) is incredible.
Cap Haitian Apple Toddy: Haitian rum cider, roasted apple, spiced butter. All the food press in the city is obsessed with the House Cap, but in my opinion this Apple Toddy is at least as good as the House Cap, if not better. It's warm, spicy, and smooth—what I hope for on a foggy San Francisco night. The perfectly roasted apple in this sucker is as soft as pudding (did we mention that Isaac used to cook at French Laundry and Gary Danko?).
Casino Bar Negroni: Campari, Carpano Antica, Beefeater Gin. It's a perfect negroni, what else is there to say?
Pro tip: Ask for the ToscaMartini. It's hand mixed every day then stored in the freezer till it's ice cold. When ordered, it's poured over a big, cold ice cube so clear, you can peer right through the glass and not know it's there. It's delightfully viscous, smooth, and still packs a perfect punch. Let it sit for a few minutes, give it a spin, and then let it warm you up.
Or, if you're feeling dangerous, ask for a Cafe Brulot. It's coffee, brandy, orange, and clove all set on freakin' fire.
Naturally, one of the highlights of Tosca Cafe is the food (and not nearly enough San Francisco bars serve food with their drinks!). With April Bloomfield in the kitchen, you can expect more than your typical bar food.
In fact, for a long time, we've contemplated the idea of starting a bar bites series. Among them, would have been former Bar Agricole chef Brandon Jew's uni deviled eggs and duck liver toast (which we have affectionately begun to pine after to the tune of "Duck Tales"—Duck Toast! Woo hoo!).
But those dishes being in memorandium since Jew left Agricole, we are super excited to welcome PIG TAILS from Tosca onto the short list (capitalization added for exuberance). Don't be put off by the thought of eating pig tails. Though cute in story books, pig tails are delicious at Tosca! They satisfyingly crunchy on the outside with rich, soft bits of fat that you can suck off the small bones. It comes with a sauce of Agrodolce reduction, vinegar, herbs and sugar, which is bright and satisfyingly acidic. If you thought wings were fun to eat, these will blow your minds.
And the pigs tails make a perfect complement to the drinks.
For vegetarians (like Josh), the cauliflower gratin provides a rich and hearty dish. Our favorite part of it is the whole half lemon, which gives a generous squeeze over the whole plate and brings the bold, cheesy flavors all together.
Here's all the photos:
- Josh + Noelle
Tosca Cafe
242 Columbus Ave
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 986-9651
Opened 5 p.m. - 2 a.m. Kitchen closes at 1 a.m. Closed Monday.
