Tuesday, March 24, 2015

Taste of the Nation This Thursday: Top San Francisco Bites and Sips to Benefit No Kid Hungry

Photo Credit: Jena Dodd

Put on your fancy pants because Taste of the Nation is coming to San Francisco's City View at the Metreon this Thursday. In its 8th year, the annual culinary benefit will bring together some of the City's most celebrated chefs to raise money for No Kid Hungry, a campaign dedicated to ending childhood hunger by providing children with healthy food and nutritional programs.

Attendants can nosh on bites from some 56 Bay Area restaurants. This includes dishes from Michael Tusk (Quince, Cotogna), Mark Liberman (AQ, TBD), Thomas McNaughton (flour+water, central kitchen and salumeria), Charles Phan (Slanted Door), David Bazirgan (Dirty Habit), Nancy Oakes (Boulevard), James Syhabout (Commis), Gayle Pirie (Foreign Cinema), and others.

There will also be beverages from wineries, distilleries, and breweries. Plymouth Gin is bringing in bartender Maxwell Britten from Maison Premiere, a James Beard-nominated oyster house and cocktail den in Brooklyn, to pair some drinks with Hog Island Oysters. He'll be mixing up three cocktails: Delta Deanna (Plymouth Gin, lime juice, celery juice, celery bitters, and Mumm champagne), Southern Cross (Plymouth Gin, Muscadet, and orange bitters), and Staghound (Plymouth Gin and Oloroso Sherry).

The event will also host live entertainment and a silent auction with luxury items.

Here are the full details:           
Date: Thursday, March 26, 2015
Location: City View at The Metreon
135 4th St.
San Francisco, CA 94103
Time: 6:30 to 9:00 p.m.; 5:30 to 9:00 p.m. for VIP
Admission: $125 for general admission; $250 for VIP
You can buy tickets here and use the discount code "GETLUCKYSF" for 20 percent off.

Monday, March 9, 2015

How to Make the Tilting at the Windmills Punch from Gitane in San Francisco [recipe]

Tilting at the Windmills

If you caught my recent article on Eater, you know that Gitane in San Francisco recently introduced a new punch menu to its bar program—and boy do those punches pack a wallop (har har). 

Well, if you're wondering how to make those punches at home, you can now make the Tilting at the Windmills punch. The recipe is a modern approach to punch—meaning that it doesn't follow the rigid 19th-century protocol of making punch using a sugar preparation called oleo saccrum and it doesn't follow the traditional pre-Prohibition proportions either ("One of Sour, Two of Sweet, Three of Strong, Four of Weak.")

Instead, it is a brew of well-tasting spirits—which may be a welcome method for home bartenders who want a simple but refreshing drink to serve in large batches.

Tilting at the Windmills is a light and refreshing punch that will work well as a before-dinner drink for your party guests or as a communal sipper at a warm spring party on your roof or lawn. The ingredients can be found at your local specialty spirits store. 

If you can't find Cocchi Americano Rosa (a rose aperitif wine, sometimes used as a vermouth), you may try to find a light and spicy vermouth. If your store doesn't carry pineapple gum syrup, you may try a different pineapple syrup or reduce some pineapple juice with sugar to taste. 

Enjoy the recipe!

- Noelle

tilting at windmills 
makes four portions. multiply as needed to fit your punch bowl.
ingredients
6 ounces pisco
3 ounces cocchi americano rosa
3 ounces pineapple gum
3 ounces lemon juice
Splash of allspice dram
(no more than 1/4 ounce)
instructions
Stir first four ingredients together in a pitcher or punch bowl, then add half as much
allspice dram as you think you need. Stir, taste and add more dram if it isn’t
fragrant with spices. You should be able to smell the spice, but treat it like bitters -
too much will ruin the drink. Serve over ice or with an ice ring in your punch bowl.

Tuesday, March 3, 2015

Meet the Drinks: Fun and Inventive Cocktails at Chino [Pictures Galore]

Chino

You could call the Mission District in San Francisco psychedelic. Home to the over 600 murals, the Mission is a canvas for epically large and intensely colorful paintings splashed all over the sides of its buildings. Add in a few spots known for drug exchanges and a newer reputation for hipster play, and it's no wonder everyone is seeing bright spots.

Chino is a playful addition to that colorful scene. Owned by the same team as Tacolicious, Chino offers a take on Asian-inspired food. Fuchsia Dunlop fans and Yelpers, put your fingers down now—this is not an attempt on authentic cuisine. Instead, you'll find a punchy flavors from favorite Asian dishes from China, Japan, Korea, and the Philippines—stuff like Xiao long bao (soup dumplings), "Chinese-ish pork ribblets," lumpia, "Korean-American rice cakes," and more.

Chino

Chino

The restaurant decor is fun and zany, full of Christmas lights, strangely hypnotic pictures of senior Asian people against neon backgrounds, exposed brick, and throwback toys from the 90s.

Chino - Danny Louie

The space is filled with mostly dinner tables, but snackers and drinkers can also sit at the prominent bar in the front. An upstairs bar pumps out additional drinks for the restaurant, and the additional seating on the second floor can also serve as a place for a private party.

Chino - Upstairs Dining Room

Danny Louie is the force behind the equally zany cocktail menu. Trained in the cocktail classics at his former post Alembic, Danny makes several plays on old conventions in these inventive drinks without making the flavors too cloying or tart. Like the food, Danny's cocktails are inspired by the Asian theme and make use of a lot of tea as a featured ingredient. The cocktails may not look or sound serious but they are carefully crafted. Danny uses high quality spirit, juices they squeeze themselves, and syrups they make in house.

Chino - Danny Louie

Danny's tweaked the menu since opening, but here are some of the cocktails you can find at Chino:

Chino - Danny Louie

Shanghai Buck
The cold, refreshing drink is a classic Charles H Baker cocktail that many cocktail nerds will recognize. Danny tweaks the original recipe using fresh pressed ginger to create a fruity and slight effervescent drink.

Chino - Shanghai Buck

Old Fashioned
This twist on the most classic of all cocktails uses James E. Pepper rye and swaps in housemade cola syrup (a cross between cola and root beer) instead of sugar. Thankfully, the cola syrup doesn't make the drink to sweet. Danny stirs it down to the perfect dilution, and the drink is well balanced.

Chino - Danny Louie

Chino - Old Fashioned

Chino - Old Fashioned

Up in Smoke
Laphroaig 10 year, lapsang souchong syrup, Cardamaro, and peach vinegar make up this drink. Lapsang souchong is a famously smokey Chinese tea (so smokey, I once got scolded at a Chinese tea shop for buying it because the store woman thought it was too smokey to be lady like—but whatever! I like it) which pairs brilliantly with the smokey Laphroaig. The peach and cardamaro round out the drink and make it pleasant and approachable for anyone to drink—girl or boy!

Chino - Danny Louie

Chino - Up in Smoke

So Strawberry
Made of Anchor Hop Head Vodka, Zirbenz Sone Pine liqueur, and strawberry shrub. The name is appropriate because it tastes through and through like strawberry. Refreshing on a warm day.

Chino - Danny Louie

Chino - So Strawberry

Drunken Tea Leaf
Danny uses Beckerovka (a spicy Czech spirit that tastes like cinnamon, clove, and Christmas), Sutton Vermouth (made locally in San Francisco's Dogpatch), cold chamomile tea, and vinegary apple shrub. It's a bright and tasty drink that tastes of a crisp fall day. It tastes like a refreshed, cold hot toddy.

Chino - Danny Louie

Chino - Danny Louie

Chino - Drunken Tea Leaf

Chinatown Iced Tea
Tell us that even one of these ingredients is not surprising: Baijiu (roughly translated in Chinese as run away—OK, so actually it means rice liquor. I had been warned about this coarse spirit many times while traveling in China, but the Baojing label that Danny uses is actually a delicate expression of it and tastes almost like an Asian pear), almond milk, passion fruit, and Lipton Tea. The drink is served long and is reminiscent of many tiki drinks, but much more nuanced, largely from the almond milk. Frothy, light, and delicious.

Chino - Danny Louie


Chino - Danny Louie


Chino - Chinatown Iced Tea


Slushie Machines
Yes, Danny brought in a slushie machine that mixes up two spiked flavors seasonally. They are served in traditional Asian glory—that is, over high quality boba and using plastic cups sealed by a special sealing machine, which you can see to the left of the machine. On this day, there was Boba Fett (vodka, apple, ginger, thai basil, and lemon) and Dr. J (rum, orange, vanilla, and cream), which Danny calls an orange julius for big kids.

Chino - Slushie

Boba Slushie
Sometimes Danny will also make a flavor without the machine, like this creamy variation made of green tea, pineapple, cola syrup, lime juice, denizen rum, house made sweetened coconut milk, and of course boba from Nuts.com.

Chino - Danny Louie

Chino - Danny Louie

Chino - Boba Slushie

Chino - Boba Slushie

Chino - Boba slushie

9 Volt
Made of Aviation gin, white grape, green tea, and Szechuan pepper. It's easy to drink with just a little pepper at the back.

Chino - 9 Volt

Singapore Sling
Like some other tiki drinks, there is no clear agreement on the recipe for the Singapore Sling, but Danny tweaks Dale Degroff's recipe and the famous Raffle hotel's to create a well-balanced blend of gin, benedictine, cherry heering, citrus, and bitters.

Chino - Singapore Sling

For more pictures of Chino, check out our album here.

Chino
3198 16th St, San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 552-5771

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Tosca Pares Down Its Cocktail Program, Continuing a Sad Streak in San Francisco Cocktails

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We thought we were sad when The Coachman closed this month. Not to mention that Trou Normand closed its early morning and espresso service. Well, we got a heavy dose of salt in the wounds when we learned that one of our other favorite bar programs, Tosca Cafe's, is being cut down. Star bar director Isaac Shumway is out, and the general manager and chef will now run the bar instead––with what we can only imagine to be a drastically simplified cocktail menu. Call us the Sorrow of Drinking.

Under Isaac, Tosca had one of our most favorite cocktail programs in the city. As a former cook, Isaac brought his experience from places like the French Laundry and Gary Danko to one of the most ambitious cocktail menus in San Francisco. He has one of the most perceptive palates and an unrelenting eye for technique and execution. Classics and originals alike were obsessively honed, perfecting cocktails down to the specific blends of sugars and level of citrus oil. The cocktails—no matter who made them—were executed to perfection. This is a big deal, especially in a city like San Francisco. It's hard to make a great menu. It's even harder to bring together a whole staff to execute consistently and quickly, even when the crowds press in.

We won't be surprised if there is an exodus of bar talent at Tosca following this news.

Cocktails in San Francisco have had a rough start to 2015. Let's hope it's only up from here.

UPDATE - 3/2
Thanks to an anonymous commenter who pointed out an article in SF Weekly. Paolo Lucchesi reports that Tosca has replaced Isaac with Joe Cleveland who will "take over lead bartender duties." Congrats to Joe! We are anxious to see what he does with the cherished program and spot.

- Noelle

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

Bar Agricole and Trou Normand: Tipping and Tax All Included

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Owner Thad Vogler is going the way of a select few other restaurant and bars in the San Francisco and, starting this year, began including service, sales tax, and the healthy San Francisco surcharge in the menu prices at his ever popular SOMA restaurants and cocktail watering holes, Bar Agricole and Trou Normand. In other words, the price you see on the menu is what you get. The reasoning behind the change, said the staff, was to ensure that the cooks, who typically don't get a share of tips, benefited from service charges as much as the front of house.

I can't seem to tear myself from either restaurant and was initially unsure of whether I liked the change or not. $21 for my favorite pasta? $13 for that divine pâté? $15 for those expertly mixed cocktails?

As I thought about it, I came to realize what a noble gesture this is for the consumer. Totally transparency. All in. What you see is what you get. No hidden costs.

I watched the couple next to me finish their charcuterie and cheese plate, and when the check came, the guy exclaimed, "This is awesome! The tip is included in the check!" My mom kept making similar remarks when I brought her to Trou Normand the previous week: "No math!" she told her friends.

And so I've come around. What works especially well for the Bar Agricole family is their impeccable dedication to service and quite simply their delicious cocktails and food. So it makes any sticker shock much more palatable, so to speak.

Now the only problem is that I can't tip more.

Saturday, February 7, 2015

What to Drink: The Michelada at Namu Gaji’s Brunch

Namu Gaji - Michelada

I’m not really a person who gravitates to the Hair of the Dog. The occasional punch or Ramos Gin Fizz with friends will sometimes fit my mood on weekend mornings, but generally speaking, I prefer a strong, black coffee to start my day.

When I do have the occasion to enjoy a long brunch on slow weekend days, I’ve recently started ordering Virgin Marys as my drink of choice. They come quick, burst with flavor even without liquor, and can spice up a couple of fried eggs. And they’re usually about half the price of the spiked version. 

But this all changed when I came upon the Michelada at Namu Gaji

We had come to the Korean-inspired restaurant on a Saturday morning hungry for the clean, comforting flavors of grilled fish, rice, and pickled vegetables. At night, the restaurant offers table service for its elegant plates of Korean American fare, but on weekend mornings, guests can order brunch at the counter and find themselves a seat at the bar along the window, the long communal table, or one of the dozen or so other two tops. 

And then I saw it on a sign by the cash register: the Michelada. A typical Michelada is a sometimes favorite of bartenders, a dirty mix of beer (often cheap), lime, peppers, and spices. In its rawest state, it can sometimes takes the form of a cold can of Tecate with a wedge of lime and a dosing of Tapatio. 

But this was not Namu Gaji’s Michelada. Namu Gaji’s Michelada is made from tomatoes—when possible, from the restaurants’s farm in Sonul ag park—gochugaru (bright red Korean pepper flakes), bulldog vegetable and fruit tonkatsu sauce, tamari (aka Japanese soy sauce from miso), wasabi, ginger, and unfiltered Asahi beer. It is garnished with a lemon wheel and a long peel of ginger. I was entranced.

And rightly so. The wheaty unfiltered Asahi beer went perfectly with the bright burst of California tomatoes and sweet Korean pepper. Unlike Bloody Marys—which sometimes make the tomatoes, salt, and alcohol feel like fire in your throat—the Michelada offered a milder, more drinkable, slightly effervescent alternative that tasted cohesive. It was everything I actually crave when ordering a Bloody Mary.

Namu Gaji - Barley Tea

For those who find the acid of tomato juice tough on their stomach, a cup of traditional barley tea is a restorative follow up (in fact, you’ll find the same kind of tea served as a finisher at the three-Michelin-starred Saison on the other side of the City).

By the way, if you're into beer cocktails, 15 Romolo is hosting its 5th annual Booze and Beer Brawl event on Feb. 15 at 6 p.m., as part of SF beer week. Some of the city's best bartenders will be competing for the best cocktail of the night, and you get to try each of their creations and then vote. Tickets are $20 in advance or $25 at the door. We often go and wrote about it a few years ago. Enjoy.

Namu Gaji
499 Dolores St
San Francisco, CA 94110
(between 8th St & Dorland St in the Mission)
(415) 431-6268
namusf.com

Sunday, February 1, 2015

Why The Coachman Is Like Second City for Cocktails—And It Just Closed

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The Coachman on its penultimate night.

Chances are that if you haven't heard of Second City, you probably have and just don't know it.

If you have ever used a 30 Rock gif to describe your life, quoted Billy Murray's character in Caddyshack, gotten your news entirely from The Colbert Report, or ironically or unironically used the phrase "win-win-win" from Steve Carrell in The Office, then you have benefited from Second City, Chicago's infamous live improv group. The full list of Second City alum reads like a who's who of the most influential, funniest comedians of the last fifty years. After earning their chops at Second City, alumni go on to act or write in TV (most notably Saturday Night Live) or film. Audiences flock to the shows, knowing that they can watch performances from some of the funniest people in the country––many of whom will go on to become nationally famous.

The Coachman—formerly known as Heaven's Dog—is San Francisco's Second City for cocktails.

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A sadly blurry picture from an iPhone 3GS during our first visit to Heaven's Dog in 2009.

A Cocktail Geek's Dream


Heaven's Dog opened in 2009 in a dodgy part of San Francisco's South of Market neighborhood, about a block away from the city's main theaters on Mission between 7th and 8th. This sister restaurant to Slanted Door had opened with some fanfare. The craft cocktail scene at the time was small and young, and those who cared about good drinks on both coasts knew that with Erik Adkins at the helm, Heaven's Dog would be amazing. Erik was and is the Slanted Door group's beverage director, and by that time he had earned the respect of "mixologists" everywhere (remember when that term didn't make you sound like a d-bag?)  for his encyclopedic knowledge of cocktails and their history, his meticulousness, and his almost supernaturally perfect execution. 

Heaven's Dog was built to be the cocktail geek's dream. It opened with a beautifully executed curation of Charles H. Baker drinks, ones that would become favorites in the craft cocktail crowd—the Fourth Regiment, an Improved Whiskey Cocktail (a Buffalo Trace old fashioned with a touch of absinthe and maraschino), the Bittered Sling (armangac, bitters, sugar, and nutmeg), and the Remember the Maine (rye, sweet vermouth, cherry herring, and bit of absinthe), for example, just to indulge myself in a few fond memories. It was one of the first places to use crystal-clear ice for every drink and to put a bar-wide emphasis on cocktail consistency. Even on the bartender's side, Erik designed the bar to be a thing of beauty—a "jet cockpit for making cocktails," as former bar manager Trevor Easter once called it. It was optimized for the bartender with the racks, sinks, glasses, and garnish trays in the most sensible and ergonomic places. And the bar itself was a long, handsome single piece of wood that was so large it had to be moved in before the front door was fully installed.

Erik said that he would work onsite on the project, and funnily you could find him working as the host and zipping around to fill water glasses (which is how we met him).

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An old picture of Heaven's Dog under Trevor Easter. Taken with a iPhone 3GS, now an artifact of the past.

Enter Coachman

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The Coachman on its preview night.

Heaven's Dog was eventually closed for a time after suffering a flood. Owner Charles Phan did away with the delicious Chinese food (Soup dumplings! Siu mai! Corn and pork! Vegetarian pork buns!) and recast it as a British gastropub called the Coachman. Cocktails were equally meticulous, but this time focused on inspiration from the Victorian Era with some real creative flair from Johnny Codd.

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Just one of Johnny Codd's inventive creations, a clarified gin flight.

Johnny Codd took the Coachman in an exciting new direction––not just for the Slanted Door Group, but also for the city. Codd pushed the boundaries, coming up with Aviary-esque cocktails right in our own backyard. His clarified gin flight (three gin and clarified citrus cocktails served up), made-to-order Campari ice cream, and blended Negronis quickly became well known. His "secret menu" was an especially creative endeavor, including roast-your-own marshmallows, smoked spirits, and glasses made of Peychauds ice. At the Coachman, Codd could be as creative as he wanted, and Adkins encouraged and guided Codd's experiments. This is why losing the Coachman is such a bummer for San Francisco. Not only are we losing a great bar, but we're losing a pace for bartenders to master their craft with skilled mentors.


A Star Studded Crew


Over the years, the restaurant bought a celebrated cast of bartenders behind the bar—a mix of industry legends and those who would launch a formidable bartending career from there. Most had come as friends to Erik or as fans/proteges of him. 

Here is a taste of the bar managers:
  • Erik Adkins (of course!)
  • Jackie Patterson (a much-loved early pioneer in the craft cocktail scene)
  • Trevor Easter (who was spotlighted as a Bar Star while at the Dog and subsequently took on the coveted role of West Coast Ambassador for Beefeater and now leads Noble Experiment in San Diego. He also started Bar Coaster while at Heaven's Dog)
  • Ethan Terry (who went on to manage Alembic and founded Reclamation Etchworks)
  • Johnny Codd (who opened the Coachman and is recognized as one of Zagat's 30 under 30 this year)
The men and women behind the bar were equally incredible. Even the opening team was stacked with possibly unparalleled talent. Many were already established or went on to open some of the Bay Area's most renowned restaurants. They included Thad Vogler (owner of Bar Agricole and Trou Normand), Eric Johnson, Craig Lane, Chris Lane (who then headed up Lolinda, El Techo, and now Ramen Shop), Isaac Shumway (bar manager of Tosca), Jennifer Colliau (bar manager the Interval at the Long Now and owner/founder of Small Hand Foods), Erik Ellestad (of Stomping Through the Savoy), John Ottman (of Holy Water), Keli Rivers, and others. 

As much as the bar was Second City, Heaven's Dog/The Coachman was also a Cheers bar. It soon became an industry watering hole and cocktail enthusiast destination. You would often see bartenders on their dinner break or nights off come by for a drink, some dumplings, and a warm welcome. Drink nerds fans would glow from the firelight of flaming 151 for roasting marshmallows.

For ourselves, personally, we learned so much from the six years we spent at the bar. We made new friends, rode a few bar coasters, watched Trevor weep in terror while making a blue blazer, created (and subsequently burned) Pedro with Isaac, enjoyed many a happy hour (and then happy evening?) over tiki drinks with Chris Lane, and had our first ever, mind-blowing negroni jello shot with Johnny as part of his hush hush menu

Friday night, The Coachman/Heaven's Dog closed. It closed quietly and quickly with little fanfare. There was no massive send-off, just a lot of tears from regular customers and staff alike. We've lost something special with The Coachman, and that is a lineage of bar managers and bartenders who were changing the way the Bay Area, and, yes, the nation, thinks about cocktails. We can only hope it is not forever.

- Josh and Noelle

Video of The Coachman's last hour, as friends and family say goodbye.